Mad, magnificent Englishmen (Part One: Scott)

Legend has it that when the great mountain climber George Mallory was asked why he wanted to climb Everest, he replied: “Because it’s there”.

I am fascinated by ice. Some people are attracted to the sea; me, I love any adventure taking place in faraway places covered by perma frost.

SCOTT AND HIS COMPANIONS LEAVING FOR THE POLE (1912)

This is not a story about conquering heights but a story about discovering a Continent, Antarctica, which captured the imagination of people in the beginning of the XX century and still captures mine. It attempts the portraits of two men, Scott and Shakleton, giants, rivals, smitten by the South Pole, crazy heroes and the last of Best of Britain, a disappearing race.The face of the British Empire was showing signs of waning -WWI would take one swipe and cut it off- when Robert Falcon Scott decided to undertake the greatest adventure of the day. The man is an officer in the Royal Navy and a protégé of Sir Clements Markham, the President of the almighty Royal Geographical Society, who convinces Scott he’s the man for the job.

It is hard for us to understand today the power wielded by this institution in a time when the world was still being mapped. The expedition captures the imagination of the Brits and the world. The barque-rigged steamship Discovery is fitted for the 2-year voyage and leaves Cardiff on August 6, 1901.

On board is Ernest Shakleton a civilian chosen by Scott for his outstanding organizational skills. On Febuary 4, after a hellish voyage through one of the worse seas it breaks through ice and weighs anchor on the shore the Ross Barrier. He climbs 180 meters in a hot air balloon; from this height the Barrier seems to go on forever.

In the course of this expedition Scott will reach the 88 parallel, after which there is no life. Old whalers used to say: “Beyond 40 south there is no law, beyond 50 south, no God”.

SCOTT. THE HUT AT CAPE EVANS

He gathers valuable scientific and meteorological data; the main purpose of the trip is to determine whether this is a land mass or an ice cap like the North Pole. It is also a trial run for the Pole and the men learn to ski, run sledges, try out dogs and ponies -Scott ultimately will use human traction. The Discovery Expedition finds the routes and passages to reach the Antarctic plateau from which it’s just a straight run to the Pole.

It is fascinating to think what they ate, mainly Pemmican, a mixture of pulverized meat, tallow and berries to which they added water. Sounds dreadful but it had the caloric content necessary to withstand the punishing temperatures, often -50 Fahrenheit or colder. To stave off scurvy they had fresh seal and horse meat, all known as hooch. They had tons of tea, of course and a ton and more of Cadbury chocolate gifted by the brand. Cotton clothes turned out to be more fitting for man hauling 90-kilo sledges. Furs left them in a sweat which quickly froze and became an icy armor.

After freeing the Discovery from the ice which threatened to keep the boat captive for another year, Scott arrives in Spithead in September 1904 and is shortly received like a hero and decorated by the King.

Now his mind is set on conquering the Pole. He will achieve this on January 17 of 1912 without ever knowing that Roald Amundsen, the Norwegian explorer, had gotten there five weeks before.

This in no way diminishes the ground breaking results of Scott’s expedition which was always more about science than a race.

He brings back fossilized fern proving Antarctica once was a tropical forest.

Scott and his four companions die on their way back after battling horrendous conditions, terrible and unusual weather, cold and hunger.

The last two die along with Scott only 11 miles from a drop point with food and fuel.

The last entries on his Diary, found next to his body, praise his men, their courage and moral fortitude. Scott not only showed extraordinary resilience in the face of adversity but went to his death with his spirit intact.

LAST ENTRY IN SCOTT'S DAIRY MARCH 29, 1912

"For God's sake look after our people"